Tie Rod End Flip Kit Installation

The angled tie rod end is a condition that results when a truck is lowered. Because of the repositioning of the suspension components, a radical angle is created at the point where the tie rod end meets the spindle.

Ideally, the tie rod and the lower control arm should be on the same plane and parallel to the ground and each other. The unwanted angle of the tie rod when a truck is lowered results in very annoying bump steer and undue wear on suspension components. Additionally, the ride and handling are compromised. Unfortunately, drop kit manufacturers and suspension technicians have never really addressed this problem. It was always one of those things folks just chose to live with. No one has come up with an affordable and practical method for correcting this problem. At least, not until recently when the good guys at DJM Suspension announced their new tie rod end flip kit for late-model Chevy Silverado pickups (additional kits for other makes and models are on the drawing board).

A few facts about the new flip kit deserve note. It will work on any lowered truck regardless of what drop kit has been installed. It includes everything necessary to correct the condition. The installation is a "piece of cake."

Basically, the DJM tie rod flip kit provides new tapered and threaded inserts and everything necessary for re-drilling and threading the spindles so the inserts can be installed into the spindles. Once the inserts are properly installed, the tie rod ends are fitted into the spindles from the bottom up, rather than the stock position from the top down, and the unwanted angle is eliminated.

To see just what's involved in the installation, we visited DJM and watched the company president, Jeff Ullmann, demonstrate how the flip kit corrects the problem. Check out the photos.

Jeff begins the demonstration by removing the front wheels on the lowered Chevy Silverado. The 2000 Silverado has a 4/6 drop on it.

Here's a close look at the tie rod end in the stock position from the top down into the spindle - showing the radical, unwanted angle.	A quality drill bit included with the kit is used to drill the stock spindle hole to 11/16, the exact size of the tap also included in the kit. Jeff uses compressed air to blow off the residue left by drilling.
The 3/4-20 tap and the spindle hole are generously coated with tapping fluid.	The tap is positioned as straight as possible in line with the hole.
Those who plan to do several installations like this one, may want to adapt an air ratchet for the tap as Jeff has done. Because of the tap's fine thread, the air ratchet attachment works well.	Compressed air is used once again to blow off the residue from cutting the thread.
After the spindle has been drilled and tapped, the tapered insert from thekit is screwed in.	Jeff uses a screwdriver (altered to fit) to screw the insert into place.
When the insert is properly in place, it should be slightly below the surface of the casting.	After the spindle has been drilled, tapped and fitted with the DJM tapered insert, the tie rod is positioned back into the spindle, this time from the bottom up, and the unwanted tie rod angle will be eliminated once the vehicle is on the ground.
A 7/16 USS washer is positioned before the nut that locks the entire assembly together.	The tie rod is tightened.
After the wheels are reinstalled, it is only necessary to readjust the toe in/out.